Playa Del Carmen
GREAT BEACHES, BEAUTIFUL JUNGLES AND ANCIENT MAYAN RUINS AT “THE OTHER CANCUN”
WORDS BY JENNIFER PLUM AUVIL
For years, Playa del Carmen maintained anonymity as vacationing crowds stuck with the more familiar Cancun area. But it was inevitable that this old fishermen’s town couldn’t stay a secret for long. Over the past few years, Playa del Carmen has earned the reputation as a sophisticated vacation spot. Even Hurricane Wilma couldn’t keep this town down; after the Mayan Riviera was battered by the storm in October 2005, it took some time for the resorts and other hotspots to gear up for the tourist season. But gear up they did, coming back with just as much verve as ever. Playa del Carmen is just an hour from Cancun, and while both are hot beach destinations, they couldn’t be more different. Over the years, Cancun has reigned king on the party scene, appealing to spring breakers and twentysomethings looking to celebrate their college years. While there’s certainly no lack of fun down the coast in Playa del Carmen, this city attracts a different crowd of honeymooners, adventurers and families looking for great beaches and even some history in the Mayan ruins. The tourist boom has encouraged hotel development not only in Playa del Carmen, but also in many of the little beach towns that line the Mayan Riviera.
The blending of beach and jungle make for an interesting vacation. Visitors can spend the morning sunning on the beach or snorkeling in the coral reefs along the Great Maya Reef. The inland jungles are a quick ride away from most spots in the area, so the afternoon can easily be spent riding horseback or exploring the jungle on an ATV tour. True adventurers can seek out the cenotes in the jungle—fresh-water swimming holes that date back to the Mayan days. After a full day, it’s still just a quick trip back to the hotel for dinner and some margaritas.
At the heart of this Riviera is the region’s great history preserved in the Mayan ruins. Inside the walled city of Tulum are two impressive structures— the castle and the temple—set against a backdrop of the bright azure sea. Xel-Ha, another popular archaeological site, seems more like an American water park with an ecological twist. The cenotes and lagoons are teeming with exotic fish that you can follow as you create your own underwater snorkeling trail. There’s cliff jumping, tubing, a turtle sanctuary and a dolphin pool where guests can swim with the residents. If this still sounds too tame, local ecotourism company Alltournative Off Track Adventures (www.alltournative.com) offers a different perspective on the ancient Mayan cities with zip lines through the jungle and guided kayak tours through the cenotes.
The other great attraction in Playa del Carmen is La Quinta Avenida, or Fifth Avenue. The nightlife picks up here just in time for happy hour, but you can head over early to check out the shops before a night of dinner and dancing. Locals and tourists alike cruise the pedestrian strip late into the evening, checking out the clubs, restaurants and taking in some old-fashioned people-watching along the way. There’s also the Mexican vacation staple Señor Frogs in town as well as the popular Blue Parrot if you’re looking to sample the local tequila.
WHERE TO STAY
Boasting a prime location on the happening La Quinta Avenida, the Deseo Hotel and Lounge (www.hoteldeseo.com) may be the hippest spot in town. If you’re looking to party, book a room at the hotel and you’ll have a short walk home from the hottest lounge—an outside paradise with a pool, bar and comfy beds to lounge in while you soak up the sun during the day or club scene at night.
Ikal Del Mar (www.ikaldelmar.com) is just 20 minutes north of Playa del Carmen in the small beach town called Playa Xcalacoco. This resort is so laidback that they request you leave your cell phones at home. To maximize your relaxation time, the 30 villas are spread out graciously around the property and each has a private pool, outdoor terrace with lounging chairs and hammock and an outdoor shower. And the liberal “dine anywhere, anytime” policy plays to every food whim and craving. No one is going to complain if you request a poolside breakfast while the rest of the guests are heading off to bed.
The Royal Hideaway Playacar (www.royalhideaway.com) is one of the few all-inclusive resorts to be included on the roster of “The Leading Hotels of the World.” What sets this resort apart from other all-inclusive destinations is the level of detail at every turn.
The resort has six à la carte restaurants, including the signature restaurant Las Ventanas, run by Michelin-rated chef Sergi Arola. There’s also a spa, swanky pools, nearby golf and a rowdy game of poolside Bingo every afternoon that’s worth checking out. The Royal Hide-away is found in the smaller neighborhood of Playacar, just a quick walk or bike ride from Fifth Avenue.
Travelers longing for more action and less lounging may leave a six-night stay at the Amansala (www.amansala.com) with more than souvenir tchotchkes. After a week in this “eco chic” resort’s bikini boot camp, you just might leave with six-pack abs, a firmer rear and a healthier outlook on exercise and diet. Each day begins with a brisk walk followed up with ab work, Pilates, yoga, meditation and adventures like biking through the Mayan ruins. But don’t panic—there’s plenty of time for massages and the tasty low-fat meals centered around the best local ingredients. If you’re looking for a real change of scenery, visit a temezcal—a Mayan sweat lodge—that involves gathering around a hot coal fire and chanting and singing to cleanse the spirit.
The hotels and tourist spots reach their peak capacity during the winter months when visitors flock from colder locales. But despite the rainy season in September and October and hot temperatures from May to August, Playa del Carmen is still the cosmopolitan place to be year round.