EXPLORE HAWAII’S GREATEST NATURAL WONDERS AND CULTURAL HIGHLIGHTS FROM HILO.
WORDS BY ROD O’CONNOR
The moment you step off the plane in Hilo the second-biggest city in the state of Hawaii, you understand why some call it the “Soul of the Big Island.” There’s no tourist overload, no forced “alohas” or other effrontery—just mellow hula piped through airport speakers, a view of majestic mountain Mauna Kea on the horizon, and a feeling that you’ve arrived in a place that represents the real heart of Hawaii.
For years, Hilo (pronounced Hee-low) served primarily as a gateway to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park and its amazing lava flows. And while the park is still a must-see, those who linger in and around this charming town will discover many other forms of adventure: from star-gazing ecotours and scenic ocean-side drives to exotic foods and authentic Hawaiian culture.
Hilo is located at the mouth of Hilo Bay, on the east end of the largest of the islands (like the state, it’s also named Hawaii). There are said to be 13 climactic regions on earth, and the Big Island has all but two—the Arctic and the Sahara—making it sort of its own “mini-continent,” with environments ranging from desert plains to verdant rainforests.
The Big Island is also believed to be the first Hawaiian Island discovered by Polynesians, perhaps as early as the fifth century. Like the locals today, these early settlers held the area’s ecologically diverse landscape in high regard, honoring the goddesses that made the rushing waterfalls and volcanic mountains their home.
To truly understand the delicate balance between ancient Hawaiian tradition and modern discovery, stop by the brand-new Imiloa Astronomy Center of Hawaii (www..imiloahawaii.org). You can’t miss the three titanium cones dotting the University of Hawaii at Hilo’s campus, or the lush backdrop of more than 50 varieties of native and “canoe” plants brought to the island centuries ago.
Start with the planetarium show “Mauna Kea: Between Earth and Sky,” a 22-minute bombardment of the senses that traces the origin of the islands via stunning footage of underwater volcanoes, and then whisks you past the clouds to witness the birth of a black hole. Explore the exhibits (many of them interactive) in the 12,000-square-foot gallery; listen to traditional creation chants in the Kumulipo Theater; check out a one-fifth scale model of an early Polynesian voyaging canoe; and ponder astronomical theory with a virtual tour of the Big Bang.
Feet back firmly on the ground, it’s time to head downtown for the Lyman Museum (www.lymanmuseum.org) and a guided tour of its neighboring Mission House. Built in 1839 for New England missionaries David and Sarah Lyman, the house is the oldest wooden structure on the Big Island and is filled with authentic period furniture and other artifacts that depict daily life for the area’s first western pioneers. Picture Mark Twain, who visited, holding court at the dining room table.
At the museum, check out the walk-thru lava tube and full-scale models of extinct species like the flightless goose. Special programs highlight the myriad cultures contributing to the Hawaiian melting pot, including the fall exhibit on Japanese temple architecture and art.
Downtown is always hopping on Wednesdays and Saturdays, when the Hilo Farmers Market invigorates the main drag, Kamehameha Avenue. This colorful market offers the opportunity to taste exotic fruits rarely found on the mainland, like the sweet, grape-like, rough-skinned lychee or the local passion fruit known as lilikoi. After wandering the aisles, head west down Kamehameha Avenue to Sig Zane Designs (www.sigzane.com) for limited-edition aloha shirts that won’t make you look like a tourist.
A short drive the other direction is historic Banyan Drive, lined with Hawaii’s cherished Banyan trees. Look for those labeled with the names of Babe Ruth, Amelia Earhart and other celebrities who planted them. A walk away is the Japanese-inspired Lili‘uokalani Park and Coconut Island, called the “island of life,” which reputedly has the power to forgive your sins.
CLIMB EVERY MOUNTAIN
After spending a few days in the shadow of Mauna Kea, you’ll want to check it out firsthand. This sacred spot is a 45-minute drive from Hilo, so expect a six-hour round trip if you book an organized tour. Plenty of companies are available for excursions, but 2006 Ecotour Operator of the Year Hawaii Forest & Trail offers an exceptional Summit and Stars Adventure (www.hawaii-forest.com).
For $165 per person, a guide will escort you up the winding roads in a four-wheel drive van. And after stopping to enjoy a picnic dinner (and acclimate at the 9,000-foot elevation), you’re soon standing atop the world’s tallest mountain when measured from its base on the sea floor—just in time for a spectacular sunset alongside the most powerful mega-telescopes on the planet.
“What’s your parka size?” is not the sort of question you expect to hear in Hawaii, but when summiting the nearly 14,000-foot “white mountain”—often snow-capped during winter—the parka comes in handy. After descending a few thousand feet, it’s time for some serious star-gazing. Sip hot cocoa and munch on cookies while an astronomy expert guides you through nebulas and globular clusters as you stare speechless at dozens of constellations in the crystal clear Hawaiian sky.
BACK TO LAND
Back at sea level, and about eight-and-a-half miles north of Hilo in the town of Papaikou, paradise can be found at the Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden (www.hawaiigarden.com), billed as one of the most beautiful areas in Hawaii. Heading north on Highway 19, look for the blue highway sign that reads “Scenic Route” and enjoy the views of the Pacific while cruising along the lush Hamakua Coast towards Onomea Bay. Once inside, follow the trail down a steep 500-foot long pathway to this “Garden in a Valley on the Ocean.”
Expect about two hours for a leisurely, self-guided tour of this 40-acre natural greenhouse full of gigantic mango and coconut trees and more than 2,000 species of tropical plants. Soak in the natural beauty of the orchid garden and a lake floating with lilies before making your way to Bay Vista Point to learn the legend of the mysterious Twin Rocks jutting out among the crashing surf.
Just a few minutes drive north, you’ll discover one the coolest, and definitely the healthiest, roadside diners of all time. What’s Shakin’ (808-964-3080) is a lunch spot housed on the 20-acre farm of owners Patsy and Tim Withers, and the bananas, papayas, mangos and most of the other fruit in their smoothies is grown on-premise. LA native Patsy has a flair for Mexican flavors, so try the delicious and hearty Chicken Wrap, bursting with black beans and homemade salsa. Before leaving, snag a dashboard hula doll at their kitschy gift shop.
Before driving back to Hilo, take a detour off Highway 19 to Highway 220 and follow the signs uphill for about five miles to Akaka Falls State Park. Take the quick and easy trail loop for a peek at Kahuna Falls and the even-more spectacular, 440-foot namesake Akaka Falls.
VISITING VOLCANOES
No trip to the Big Island is complete without making the trek to the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, but be sure to leave enough time to stop at some of the area’s top food spots on the way. Off Highway 11 is the legendary Big Island Candies (www..bigislandcandies.com), with factory tours and free chocolate and cookie samples. In nearby Kea‘au you’ll find the Mauna Loa Macadamia Visitor Center (www.maunaloa.com), with self-guided tours and tastes of Hawaii’s most famous nut.
While coffee fanatics know the quality of Kona’s beans on the west side of the island, stroll the plantation-style grounds at Hilo Coffee Mill (www.hilocoffeemill.com) to get the scoop on the East Hawaii coffee. Volcano Village’s Kilauea Lodge (www.kilauealodge. com), one of the top restaurants in the area, is just minutes from the park’s entrance and a great place to unwind after hiking. (Try the lamb chops or the ahi tuna steak.)
The island’s star attraction is the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (www.nps. gov/havo)—330,000 acres of hiking trails, cultural attractions and jaw-dropping scenery. Hit the highlights along the 11-mile Crater Rim Drive. Pop into the Jaggar Museum for a primer on Pele the volcano fire goddess, and don’t miss your chance to gape into the massive Halema‘uma‘u and Keanakako‘i Craters, or visit the rainforest that’s home to the 500-year-old Thurston Lava Tube.
But the real once-in-a-lifetime experience is seeing Kilauea—the world’s most active volcano—as it pours bright orange lava into the Pacific, vaporizing the seawater into billowy-white plumes of lava haze. Best viewed at night, time your arrival for just before sundown. Closed-toe shoes, a flashlight and plenty of water are essential. Allow at least three hours roundtrip; the really adventurous should arrive much earlier to hike three more miles and see the lava up close and personal.
Follow the crowds down the dead-end road and across the cracked, lava-scarred earth. Notice the puffs of steam all around you. Soon, as the setting sun disappears into a rusty sky, the fire goddess will begin her Big Island show one more time.
Visit the Special Offers page at ata.com for more information and special offers for Hilo.
WHAT IS ECOTOURISM?
Ecotourism is many things: a buzzword, a movement, a philosophy. According to the Hawaiian Ecotourism Association, the definition is “nature and culture based tourism that is ecologically sustainable and supports the well-being of local communities.”
With such an ecologically diverse landscape, the Big Island provides visitors ample opportunity to interact with some of the most awe-inspiring scenery and wildlife on the planet.
“There are lots of visitors who aren’t going to come here to lie in the sun and sip Mai Tais,” says Annette Kaohelaulii, former president of the Hawaii Ecotourism Association. “They’re interested in the culture and the natural history.”
If you’re searching for a true eco-friendly adventure, look for companies that tout small tour groups versus big bus excursions. Best bet: Go to the searchable database at www..hawaiiecotourism.org or call them at 1-877-300-7058 to make sure you’re getting the real deal.
Where to Stay
SHIPMAN HOUSE BED & BREAKFAST INN
Built in 1899, this mansion in the heart of Hilo was restored by owners Gary and Barbara Ann Andersen (whose great-father, W.H. Shipman, bought the house in 1901). Charming upstairs rooms were created from sections of the original ballroom. Breakfast is served on the lanai (veranda) facing Hilo Bay and features homemade breads and a bountiful platter of fruits grown on property.
808-934-8002 www.hilo-hawaii.com $205-$225 per night
ARNOTT’S LODGE
From a gorgeous camping lawn for tents to deluxe rooms and two-bedroom suites, Arnott’s caters to a wide range of travelers. Also a tour provider that can guide you on your own adventure, Arnott’s is the perfect base from which to explore the national wonders of Mauna Kea and Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.
808-969-7097 www.arnottslodge.com $10-$130 per night
THE PALMS CLIFF HOUSE INN
Just 15 minutes north of downtown Hilo, this secluded Victorian estate is situated 100-feet above the ocean and offers gourmet breakfasts, spa treatments, traditional English High Tea and luxurious rooms with Jacuzzis.
808-963-6076 www.palmscliffhouse.com $175-$395 per night
HILO HAWAIIAN HOTEL
Located near the tranquil Lili‘uokalani Park, this hotel has views of Mauna Kea and a ‘70s vibe. The leather booths of Queen’s Court restaurant fill up for the weekend buffets.
808-935-9361 www.castleresorts.com/hhh $136-$415 per night