Words by Sheri Bell-Rehwoldt
Somewhere between Dallas and Forth Worth is an invisible line that divides the East from the West, and the two cities are the third and fifth largest in the state, respectively. But make no mistake about it—this part of North Texas is still horse country.
In fact, the Lone Star State—where locals boast that things are bigger (there’s a saying that Texas bedbugs dwarf Maine lobsters), if not better—tops the country with its equestrian population. There are more than one million horses in Texas, far more than in any other state in the country. In Denton County alone, an area of 912 square miles just northeast of Fort Worth, there are some 300 horse farms and ranches, thus earning it the nickname “Horse Country, USA.”
So, if you’re in the market for your own Quarter Horse, Paint or Andalusian horse, a visit to one of this area’s specialized breeding farms, such as Fossil Gate (www..fossilgatefarms.com ), is in order. Visitors are welcome at many of the farms, but it’s still polite to give them a call (the locals call it a “heads up”) before you mosey on over. Who knows? You might even get Linda and Gary Gordon, the proprietors of Fossil Gate, to let you take a peek at “Im Tee Totally Cool,” the proud papa of seven world champions, or “Sock Broker,” one of the top breeding stallions in Paint Horse history.
But if you’re new to the horse scene and just starting to consider buying some ropers and slapping your fanny onto a saddle, the Dallas/Forth Worth area is still the perfect place to orient yourself to the Western way of life —and the best place to begin your education is in the Fort Worth Stockyards National Historical District (www.fortworthstockyards.org ).
Today’s Fort Worth is growing in its reputation as an aviation, logistics and technology center. But it also remains that special place where cowboys—and cowgirls—hunger to ride 'em, rope 'em and show ya how it’s done. According to Steve Murrin, a longtime cattle guy whose family helped to turn the once-decaying Stockyards into a thriving tourist attraction, it’s the place to view an authentic slice of cowboy history. “Fort Worth is where the West begins,” Murrin says. “It’s the center of cowboy culture.”
Fort Worth is where the West begins. It’s the center of cowboy culture.
Fort Worth was, after all, part of the Chisholm Trail, the last major stop before cowboys took to the plains to herd millions of Texas Longhorns between South Texas and Kansas from 1867 to 1884. Longhorns are the hearty cattle that descended from herds introduced to Mexico by Christopher 
Columbus. But when transportation of the bovines switched to the railroad, the Fort Worth Stockyards blossomed, functioning as one of the main central shipping points. Ancillary businesses, such as saddle shops and Western wear, quickly grew up around it. Yet, all that growth sputtered like a cowboy out of chew when 18-wheelers became the preferred mode of transport.
“The stockyards became a bunch of yucky bars, a bad part of town,” explains Murrin. “My dad started buying up some of the buildings to try to revitalize the image. The city wanted to sweep the stockyards under the rug, to forget that history, but people finally began to realize that we could still be called 'Cowtown’ and not be considered country bumpkins.” In a deep, satisfied drawl, he adds, “Now, Fort Worth is proud of its Western heritage.”
One of the high points of the revitalized Stockyards’ 15 blocks of “tradition, nightlife and family fun” is catching the two daily cattle drives of Longhorns. This is a treat to be savored, as Longhorns were nearly driven into extinction in the early 1920s, when beef lovers salivated a tad too much over the tasty, lean meat. In fact, the Texas Longhorn Breeders Association of America claims that by the early 1960s there were fewer than 1,500 head of genuine Texas Longhorn cattle left on the planet.
Reminding visitors that “longhorns are not pets or show animals, and drives are subject to their disposition” (and the weather), contemporary cowboys mimic the thousands who came before them as they expertly drive the livestock down Exchange Avenue, at 11:30am and 4pm, past the Stockyards Visitor’s Center (www.stockyardsstation.com ) on their way to Cowtown Coliseum.
Built in 1908, Cowtown Coliseum (www.cowtowncoliseum.com ) was the site of the world’s first indoor rodeo. On Friday and Saturday nights, at 8pm, the whole family can get their fill of bareback riding, barrel racing, team roping and bull riding. Nearby, you can watch professionals take to the backs of beefy bulls in the 1,200-seat arena at Billy Bob’s Texas (www.billybobstexas. com), which bills itself as “the world’s largest honky-tonk.” More than 25,000 of the feisty brutes have bucked their way around Billy Bob’s indoor arena over the past 20 years. Be sure to grab a front-row seat on Friday or Saturday nights at 9pm or 10pm.
But once you start to get that itch to copy the moves of these pros, it’s time to hit the road. Pop over to the Texas Cowboy Hall of Fame (www..texascowboyhalloffame.com ) before leaving the Stockyards District. The museum is open daily, leaving you no excuse to miss its tribute to the crème de la crème of Texas rodeo and cutting history. Don’t miss the nods to Don Gay (eight-time World Champion Bull Rider) and Charmayne James (11-time World Champion Barrel Racer), the most successful woman in rodeo history.
After a spin in the gift shop, head east on Hwy. 80 to the 75-acre Rocking L Guest Ranch (www.rockinglranch. com) in Wills Point, about 50 miles east of Dallas. If Brad and Alicia Larsen, the owners of the ranch, offer you a tall glass of Texas sweet tea—that addictive concoction of tea and a cup of sugar per half gallon of water—take 'em up on it. Then head over to one of the stocked fishponds, take a dive in the pool, or set out on a picnic trail ride at sunrise, sunset or high noon. A two-night stay is perfect for taking advantage of all the ridin’ and ropin’ fun that’s offered.
But if your visit to the Dallas Forth Worth area is a short one, and you don’t have the time for all this lollygagging, hoof it over to one of the area riding farms. Try M-Bar-K Farms (www.dfwridinglessons.com ) in Cedar Hill, just 20 minutes south of Dallas, or Benbrook Stables (www..benbrookstables.com ), a family-oriented equestrian center near downtown Fort Worth. M-Bar-K, which offers private lessons for all levels of experience, is visited by business travelers and vacationers alike. Benbrook Stables also offers private riding lessons and hourly guided trail rides or arena rides Wednesday through Sunday, 10am-5pm.
If you’re coming to fully immerse yourself in all things Western, plan to be in town in mid-January for the 2007 Forth Worth Stock Show & Rodeo (www.fwssr.com ) at the Will Rogers Memorial Center. First held in 1896, the annual Stock Show has grown into a three-week extravaganza featuring 22,000 critters (from rabbits to Longhorns), cowboys, demonstrations, auctions—and four acres of shopping.
A crowd of nearly 100,000 was on hand for the 2006 kick-off of the All Western Parade, and nearly 956,000 visitors attended the Stock Show, dropping more than $100 million into the economy before they left.
But you can expect that number to keep climbin’, 'cuz this is Texas— where everything keeps getting bigger and better.