SAMPLE SOME OF THE INTERNATIONAL FLAVOR IN CHICAGO’S MOST VIBRANT 'HOODS AND Chicago is, first and foremost, a city of great neighborhoods, and its hard-working persona can be traced to the dozens of diverse cultures that settled in this former swampland over several generations. People from all over the world have come to the Windy City to pursue the American dream, bringing with them the food, art and culture that has made Chicago a thriving metropolis. Many of its most vibrant enclaves have side-stepped homogenization and retained their distinct cultural flavors.
Certainly, a visit to Chicago allows for detours from deep-dish pizza, old steakhouses, downtown museums and shopping along the Magnificent Mile. One could argue that if you don’t venture to at least one of its ethnic neighborhoods, you haven’t seen the real Chicago. Here are two cultural excursions well worth the trip.
BUSTLING CHINATOWN For the slightly adventurous, a whole new world can be found a short cab or 'L’ train ride from most Loop hotels. Chicago’s Chinatown—the third-largest in the nation—was founded on Wentworth Avenue in the early 1900s. Today, this bustling commercial thoroughfare is much the same as it was then, lined with colorful gift shops, exotic restaurants and stores selling curious herbal remedies. Your first stop is Maxim’s (312-225-8285), a hidden gem of a bakery known for their house-made sticky buns— the perfect fuel to start the day’s journey.
You’ll enter the older section of the 'hood via the Chinatown Gate—a massive archway and unofficial icon of the neighborhood— made from hand-painted Taiwanese tiles. Strolling south, take a few moments to appreciate the ornate red-and-green façade of the landmark Leong Building (now called Pui Tak Center), built in 1926. This former “Chinatown City Hall” currently serves as a local Sunday school, but its significance as a symbol of Chinese architecture remains.
After reaching 26th Street, cross the street and walk back north on the other side of Wentworth and do a little shopping. Stop for some hard-to-find Oolong tea and a handsome clay teapot at classy Ten Ren (312-842-1171).
Archer Avenue is the unofficial border with “new Chinatown,” and it’s also where you’ll find a cluster of some of the area’s best restaurants. Cantonese is the predominant dialect spoken here, and the bi-level (and often very crowded) Phoenix (312-328-0848) does provincial cuisine as good as anywhere. Some consider their dim sum the best in Chinatown. Try the pork and shrimp dumplings, or seafood dishes like the tasty steamed sea bass.
For lighter fare, the nearby Mandarin Kitchen (312-328-0228) offers Shanghainese specialties like fried bean curd, delicate smoked fish and delicious steamed dumplings in a small, no-frills dining room. For those seeking spicy Szechuan cooking, there’s Lao Sze Chuan (312-326-5040), which also features traditional “hot pot” dining (sort of a healthier version of fondue, with foods cooked in hot oil or broth).
After your meal, head to Chinatown Square (completed in 1993), a wide-open space that functions as a popular gathering place. The entrance is marked with a massive mural made from more than 100,000 tiles that tells the story of Chinese immigration to Chicago and the US. Venture onto the brick walkway and notice the small statues representing all the animals of the Chinese New Year. Search for your birth year, and then read the corresponding plaque carefully to find out whether the described character traits are a match.
Before leaving Chinatown, pay a visit to Saint’s Alp Teahouse (312-842-1886)—its bright orange-and-yellow décor is a nice break from the urban-industrial surroundings. Plop down in one of their mod chairs and watch as a resident mixologist shakes up a frothy green tea with milk and tapioca pearls, or maybe a ruby grapefruit green tea. This Hong Kong-based chain is a relative newcomer to Chicago’s Chinatown, but its “something old-something new” approach is breathing new life into the neighborhood, showing locals and visitors that ancient traditions can indeed coexist with hip design.
In Chicago, there’s a cultural community for every taste. Here are some other unique neighborhoods to explore, and one can’t-miss stop in each:
GREEKTOWN • NEAR WEST SIDE
Did you know Chicago invented saganaki, the delicious flaming cheese appetizer popular at Greek joints everywhere? Try it at Pegasus restaurant (312-226-4666), followed by a savory lamb kebob.
LITTLE ITALY • NEAR WEST SIDE
Taylor Street is still so Italian you can practically smell the garlic in the air, wafting from the area’s many iconic restaurants. Outside of the Chicago-style hot dog, Italian beef is the sandwich Chicago is best known for. Al’s Number 1 Italian Beef (312-226-4017) has been serving them since 1938.
ANDERSONVILLE • NORTHWEST SIDE
It’s not the original location, but the Ann Sather’s restaurant (773-271-6677) in the former Swedish neighborhood of Andersonville is an essential stop for fans of delicious Swedish pancakes.
UKRAINIAN VILLAGE • NEAR WEST SIDE
This 'hood that borders the rapidly gentrifying Wicker Park is changing daily. The daughter of Ukrainian immigrants opened Café Ballou (773-342-2909), a lovingly-maintained Euro-style café that reminds newly arrived hipsters of the neighborhood’s true cultural identity.
MEXICAN PRIDE IN PILSEN Moving west from Chinatown, the signs on the storefronts slowly turn from Chinese characters to Spanish lettering in Pilsen. Originally German and Irish—and then Bohemian—the neighborhood has been dominated by those of Mexican descent since the 1950s. Today, bright murals can be seen on nearly every street corner, and Pilsen has established itself as the city’s gateway for Mexican immigrants.
The Mexican Fine Arts Museum (www..mfacmchicago.org ) sets the tone for this tight-knit community. The largest Latino Arts organization in the US, the recently expanded space tells the complete story of the Mexican experience with exhibits that begin with artifacts from indigenous Mayan and Aztec cultures onward through the colonial period, the Mexican revolution and 20th century equality movements.
Among the highlights of the collection are a simple-yet-moving photo collage titled “Diversity,” showing portraits of several families living in Mexico; a multi-media installation dedicated to labor hero Cesar Chavez (including a replica of the family pickup truck that once served as his home); and a gallery housing 42 propaganda posters and other print works from the Chicano political movement. Every year, the museum serves as the focal point of the city’s Day of the Dead celebrations, with both modern and traditional interpretations of the decorative altars honoring loved ones who have passed.
In Pilsen, myriad options exist for a filling and delicious meal. One spot that consistently tops the list for locals is Nuevo Léon (312-421-1517), a family-owned, 40-year institution known for its Bistec a la Méxicana (Rib eye steak) and sizzling fajitas. Nearby Taqueria El Milagro (312-433-7620) is a bright, cafeteria-style café serving favorites like juicy skirt steak tacos and pork tamales on fresh tortillas from the next-door tortilla factory.
If you’re in the mood for more creative cooking, venture a bit south. At May Street Café (312-421-4442), the menu combines Puerto Rican, Mexican and Cuban cuisines in dishes such as brie and pear quesadillas, and salmon with chipotle-tequila cream sauce. And Playa Azul (312-421-2552), at the heart of the 18th Street corridor, is a good call for traditional seafood including fresh oysters and deep-fried red snapper Veracruzaná.
But the best way to experience Pilsen is to walk the streets and feel their energy. If you need a quick pick-me-up after dinner, duck into Jumping Bean Café (312-455-0019)—a warm and friendly coffee joint and local hangout. Then, hoof it east towards the Halsted Street Chicago Arts District, home to a lively stretch of emerging artist galleries. Every month the district comes alive as the area hosts “2nd Fridays”—a night for all the galleries to share their work.
While some worry encroaching gentrification might steal the soul of Pilsen, it’s hard to imagine the residents—four decades of artists side-by-side with
Mexicans and Mexican-Americans—letting that happen. All truly appreciate the rich community they’ve created, and after one stroll down 18th Street, you’ll appreciate it too.