EXPLORE THE DIVERSE HISTORICAL AND NATURAL ATTRACTIONS THAT MAKE UP THE YUCATAN’S FIVE WORLD HERITAGE SITES.
BY PAM GEORGE
The ancient Mayan city of Uxmal.
The Great Barrier Reef in Australia. The Tower of London in England. Although drastically different, these tourist attractions share common characteristics: not only do they attract international travelers, they are also important sources of cultural pride and income for their home countries. To promote and conserve these cultural legacies, in 1972, UNESCO (the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) created the World Heritage list.
To date, UNESCO has recognized 830 sites in 138 countries. The landmarks are a mix of cultural and natural treasures, ranging from the Statue of Liberty to the Grand Canyon. Perhaps nowhere is this diversity more evident than on the Yucatan Peninsula, home to five of Mexico’s 26 World Heritage sites—all within driving distance of Cancun.
“You have colonial cultural sites, Mayan sites and an important biosphere reserve—that blending is unique,” says Kate Dodson, associate director of sustainable development for the United Nations Foundation, the largest private supporter of the World Heritage program.
CHICHEN-ITZA
One of Mexico’s most popular destinations, ChichenItza deserves the hype. The fabled Mayan city still bears the indelible—and often mystical—imprint of those who created it. On the spring and fall equinoxes, a shadow slithers down the steps of El Castillo, a pyramid built to honor the deity Kukulcan, and lands squarely at the sculptured head of a snake. A trick of shade and sunlight makes the shape appear to undulate.
The pyramid is just one of the impressive structures that demonstrates its founders’ astronomical skill. There is even a surviving circular observatory, El Caracol. Many structures display the influence and artistry not only of the Mayans, but also of the Toltec and Iztec civilizations.
The size of the ruins is staggering, and in line with the throngs of tourists that visit the site each day. While Chichen-Itza is an easy day trip from Cancun, you might wish to spend the night to avoid mid-morning and afternoon bus crowds. Fortunately, there are plenty of options. Mayaland (www.mayaland.com)—a member of the World Heritage Alliance, an organization that pulls the travel industry together to promote sustainable tourism—offers a variety of tours from Cancun, some of which feature overnight accommodations.
The main doorway of Hotel Mayaland is so close to the ruins, it provides a picture-perfect frame for El Caracol. The hotel was built in 1923 by the Barbachano family, which still operates it, and it was refurbished in the 1990s. The newer Lodge at Chichen-Itza, also a Mayaland property, does not accept tour buses or large groups. Opt for this choice if you want more peace and quiet . Club Med (www.clubmed.com), a new World Heritage Alliance member, is located in Cancun, and the world-famous resort offers bus trips limited only to its guests.
UXMAL
About an hour from Chichen-Itza and three and a half hours from Cancun, Uxmal is less visited than its more famous counterpart. Yet archaeologists often cite the ancient town as one of the finest examples of Mayan architecture. “It’s well known as a spiritual center,” Dodson says. Legend has it that the Pyramid of the Magician, Uxmal’s signature structure, was built in one night by a dwarf-god, who had hatched from an egg to reach adulthood in a single day. Few would argue that he did a good job. Most of the building is in remarkable condition.
The pyramid has rounded sides, steep steps and a stellar view. It is also festooned with masks of the rain god, Chaac, who was of vital importance to the 25,000 residents. Unlike its neighbor, Chichen-Itza, Uxmal did not have a plethora of wells, so residents relied on rainwater.
The Nunnery Quadrangle—which is comprised of long buildings with elaborately carved façades—was named by the Spanish, who thought it resembled a convent. As is the case at ChichenItza, there is a ball court.
Within about 10 miles of Uxmal are four smaller “ancient” towns: Kabah, Sayil, Xlapak and Labna. Together they form the “Ruta Puuc,” named for the hills in which they reside. If you can’t locate Uxmal on a tour operator’s offerings, look for Ruta Puuc. Those planning to stay overnight can consider Hotel Hacienda Uxmal (www.mayaland.com), Mayaland’s Uxmal resort.
CALAKMUL
Tucked away in the tropical forests of the Tierras Bajas, about 20 miles from Guatemala’s northern border and five hours from Cancun, Calakmul was a major Mayan city for more than 12 centuries. Calakmul’s name means “Adjacent Mounds,” and from 250 A.D. to 750 A.D., it was also known as “Reign of the Head of the Snake,” which signifies the city’s importance in peak periods.
The structures are located in the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve (www.calakmul.org), which covers about 1.8 million acres and is populated by jaguars and howler monkeys. Many of the structures in the archaeological zone are still hidden in the jungle. Restorers and conservationists are at work at Calakmul; however, many recognize the primal appeal of the unexplored ruins. “When you see the jungle creeping over these pyramids, it is really remarkable,” Dodson says.
The walk to the ruins is at least 30 minutes long, so bring water and bug spray, and wear comfortable shoes. Given their remote location, it is not surprising that lodging is more eco-friendly than luxurious. The 15-room Puerta Calakmul Jungle Lodge (www..puertacalakmul.com.mx) sits at the entrance to the road leading to the biosphere and archaeological site. The Chicanna Ecovillage (+52 983-871-60-74) is another option, but don’t expect air-conditioning.
SIAN KA’AN
Less than two hours from Cancun and about 20 minutes from Tulum, Sian Ka’an is a paradise for nature-lovers. Picture mangroves, marshes and more than 300 bird species. Since this biosphere has access to the world’s second-largest barrier reef, it is a perfect snorkeling spot. You can also hike, kayak and canoe.
While it is primarily known for its Mayan heritage— there are 22 ruins—Sian Ka’an has another claim to fame. “It is one of the most renowned places in the world for fly-fishing,” Dodson says. For a more leisurely activity, float down a natural canal. “You see birds flying into the mangroves. You see fish swimming underneath your feet—it is absolutely beautiful,” she says.
Community Tours Sian Ka’an (www.siankaantours. org), a local alliance between Mayan cooperatives based in Sian Ka’an, offers visitors the chance to explore the area with Mayan guides, who speak Spanish, Mayan and English.
If you want to spend more time here, consider a stay in Playa del Carmen or Tulum, which is currently on the “tentative” list of World Heritage sites and may be linked with Sian Ka’an in the future. The Centro Ecológico Sian Ka’an (www.cesiak.org) offers ecologically sensitive bungalows onsite. Fly-fishers often stay in nearby Punta Allen eco-lodges.
HISTORIC FORTIFIED TOWN OF CAMPECHE
Campeche, capital of the state of Campeche, is a marked departure from the Mayan sites. About four hours from Cancun, the Spanish colonial town is one of the last-surviving examples of a fortified city in the Americas (Quebec City is another).
A continuous parade of marauding pirates in the 17th century prompted the fortification, which later came in handy against enemy armies. The historic area has retained its outer walls, bastions, sea gates and fortifications, and the San Miguel Fort now houses the Museo de la Cultura Maya. The Museo de las Estelas Mayas exhibits regional art.
“There is a really well-developed local artisan cooperative,” Dodson says. “Campeche is also really well known for its cuisine.” Even better, Campeche is located on the coast, so you can relax on the beach between visits to cultural attractions.
If you’re traveling from Cancun, plan to stay at least one or two nights to experience the city. www.campechetravel.com
Regardless of where you stay or what you do, go local whenever possible, she urges. “In some areas around Sian Ka’an, Campeche and Calakmul, the median income for a family of five is only $700 a year,” she notes. “So tourism cooperatives are great opportunities for local Mayans. All the economic benefits stay in the community.”