Explore the great outdoors on Hawaii’s Big Island.
BY BRET LOVE PHOTOGRAPH BY RON DAHLQUIST
It’s possible to go to Hawaii’s Big Island and have the time of your life without ever leaving your hotel—but travelers seeking a bit more of an adrenaline rush than one tends to get from applying copious amounts of sunscreen and hailing the waitress for yet another tangy passion fruit margarita will find plenty of opportunities on this tropical island playground. Boasting 11 of the world’s 13 different ecosystems, it may be the only place in the world where you can swim alongside sea turtles and spinner dolphins in the morning, then ascend the snow-capped summit of a mountain above the clouds to watch a spectacular sunset that same night. Here are a few great ways to explore Hawaii’s bounty of natural wonders.
HIKE TO SECLUDED WATERFALLS
In 2003, Hawaiian Walkways was voted “Tour Operator of the Year” by the Hawaii EcoTourism Association. Their Waipio Waterfall Adventure offers visitors a rare opportunity to explore private trails around the rim of Waipio Valley and view some of the most spectacular scenery that the Big Island has to offer. Departing at 9am daily from the small town of Honokaa, the moderately difficult 4.5-hour hike travels through three and a half miles of lush rainforests and verdant fields, across foot bridges over streams, to breathtaking views of the ocean and valley floor more than 1,000 feet below. Expert guides tell hikers about the area’s history and point out native flora and fauna along the way.
www.hawaiianwalkways.com
GO OFF-ROAD IN A PINZGAUER ATV
“Fasten your seatbelts—it’s going to be a bumpy ride,” your Hawaii Forest & Trail guide should announce as he prepares you for an off-road tour in an openair six-wheel-drive Pinzgauer vehicle. Known for high ground clearance and adaptability in traversing rough terrain that might be otherwise inaccessible, this boxy Swiss import gives the company’s rugged PinzTrek Off- Road Adventures its name. The company’s Hualalai Holoholo tour takes guests to seldomvisited private lands on the upper slopes of Hualalai Mountain, an active but currently dormant volcano more than 8,000 feet above the bustling tourist hub of Kailua-Kona. Bring a jacket, because the winds begin to whip around you before a welcome stop at Mountain Thunder Coffee Plantation to sample some of the scrumptious java for which the Kona region is world-renowned. Then it’s onward and upward through a surreal scene full of native dryland forest, lava flows and gigantic pit craters that bear witness to the sheer power of the mountain’s previous volcanic eruptions. Don’t forget to wear sturdy shoes for short hikes across gnarly, lava-strewn terrain—and prepare yourself for a brief-butexhilarating rope descent into an impressive lava tube.
www.pinztrekhawaii.com
Learn To Paddle An Outrigger Canoe
DECADES AGO, visitors to the islands were intrigued by a group of storytellers that became known as the “Beachboys.” They would gather on Hawaii’s beaches and share their knowledge of the ocean and local culture, keeping the spirit of old Hawaii strong. The tradition remains alive today at the Fairmont Orchid, a sprawling resort property on the Big Island’s Kohala Coast, where a crew of “Beachboys” (which actually includes a “Beachgirl” or two) are on the beach ready to lead botanical tours and archeological hikes to the nearby petroglyph fields. They also offer visitors tips on everything from making leis to paddling outrigger canoes in the open ocean. It was outrigger sailing canoes that originally brought Polynesians to Hawaii from Tahiti sometime between 300 and 750 AD, and canoeing remains the state’s most popular competitive sport today, with racing events held practically every weekend from May to September. Launching from the Fairmont Orchid’s lagoon, you enter brilliant blue waters so crystal clear that the coral reef 20 to 50 feet below seems close enough to touch. As you venture out approximately a mile from shore, you’ll be treated to spectacular views of the scenic coastline and, if you’re lucky, whale sightings so close you can practically feel the sharp “whoosh!” of their blowhole spray.
www.fairmont.com/orchid
Snorkel Historic Kealakekua Bay
BACK IN 1778, British explorer Captain James Cook stumbled upon the Hawaiian Islands while searching for a northwest passage above North America. Mooring his vessel in the calm waters of Kealakekua Bay (Kealakekua means “pathway of the gods”), the captain was initially believed by the natives to be a representative of Lono, god of fertility and harvest. When a misunderstanding led to tense relations in 1779, Cook and members of his crew were killed, but a monument to his historic achievement stands on the shore to this day. As related by the captain of the Fair Wind II (whose snorkel tours are among the best on the Big Island), the story provides historical context for the majestic setting of this marine life sanctuary, where sheer volcanic cliffs provide a buffer that protects the bay and leads to clear blue waters as calm as a swimming pool. Here, snorkeling visibility is excellent yearround, revealing a broad spectrum of vividly colorful aquatic life ranging from anemones and angelfish to puffer fish and sea turtles. Even when you’re out of the water, nature’s beauty remains on full display, with frequent whale sightings during winter months and spinner dolphins often frolicking in the 60- foot-long boat’s wake.
www.fair-wind.com
CLIMB ABOVE THE CLOUDS
Arnott’s Lodge and Hiking Adventures offers a broad range of outdoor excursions, specializing in small groups and unusual outings involving vigorous physical activity. One of its most popular tours is the Mauna Kea Sunset and Starshow, which finds visitors gradually making their way 13,600 feet up the revered mountain for a view that will quite literally leave many breathless. It’s a long, winding ride up to the top of the road, where high-powered telescopes provide incredible views of the stark landscape. If conditions permit, hardy hikers can climb a few hundred feet to the actual summit of Mauna Kea for an unforgettable view of the sun setting from above the clouds. The evening concludes with a descent to the Visitor Center for hot cocoa and coffee, and a laser-guided overview of major celestial bodies and navigational stars used by the ancient Polynesians.
www.arnottslodge.com
EXPLORE THE UNSPOILED BEAUTY OF THE HILO COAST
While Kona and the Kohala Coast have become increasingly popular tourist destinations in the last decade, the lesserknown east side of Hawaii’s Big Island remains a relatively untouched tropical paradise. Hilo Ocean Adventures offer a unique opportunity to explore this lush coastline via the Manta Raiv, a 25-foot Rigid Aluminum Inflatable Vessel originally designed for ocean search-and-rescue and law enforcement. Many passengers instinctively choose to sit on one of the boat’s central benches, but straddling the air-filled tubes that surround the vessel provides a natural shock absorber for bumpy waves, while also offering a thrilling ride somewhat akin to an aquatic rodeo. Heading out from Hilo Bay approximately one mile out to sea, Captain Steve Turner proves adept at spotting marine life, from sea turtles and spinner dolphins to huge humpback whales during winter months. The tour heads north along the coast, with Turner pointing out everything from old sugar mills to a variety of majestic waterfalls tumbling down steep cliffs.
www.hilooceanadventures.com