TAKE A TOUR OF CHICAGO’S THRIVING GALLERY DISTRICTS. BY ROD O’CONNOR
A walk down Michigan Avenue puts you up close with some of the most important art of the past two centuries. Dozens of Impressionist masterworks are hanging at the renowned Art Institute of Chicago. Just nine blocks north is the Museum of Contemporary Art, the city’s epicenter of cutting-edge modern art, and even those looking to buy a Picasso can try their luck at Richard Gray Gallery.
But beyond the Magnificent Mile, there’s a thriving gallery scene well worth exploring, from the emerging artists living and working in Pilsen to the mid-career and established work in galleries clustered around River North and the West Loop. And the best part is that while the city provides plenty of variety, you can see a little bit of everything during the course of a visit.
Along with Chicago’s reputation as a hotbed of independent thought, there is—thankfully—a noticeable lack of pretension. “It’s not a bandwagon town,” says Natalie van Straaten, executive director of the Art Dealers Association of Chicago. “There is a great emphasis on the creativity and individuality of the artists who live in the city and show in the city. It’s not about hot trends and yesterday’s stuff; it’s about great quality art that’s making a difference.”
CHICAGO ARTS DISTRICT IN EAST PILSEN
Where to start: 18th and Halsted streets (south of Downtown)
The displacement of artists from the Hyde Park area near the University of Chicago in the 1960s served as the catalyst for massive real estate development in Pilsen, the city’s haven for emerging artists.
The success story is mostly due to the efforts of the Podmajersky family, Slovakian immigrants who started buying up buildings in this southside neighborhood shortly after the turn of the century, ultimately converting them into lofts and studios for artists in need. Over the years, the family also transformed the vacant alleyways between buildings into lush, European-style courtyard gardens, many of which can be explored during openings.
Today, the district features a little bit of everything: traditional paintings on canvas, photography, stained glass. And while plenty of Chicago artists can be found, there’s also an international flavor that draws from all over the world, particularly reflecting the Latino makeup of this proud Mexican neighborhood.
“One of the things that make it unique is that it’s sort of an artist community,” says Julie Anna Welcher, marketing associate of the Chicago Arts District’s organizing body. “Many of the artists live and work in the neighborhood, and most of the galleries are artist owned and operated, so they have a vested interest in the kind of work they’re showing.”
Key Galleries
Ceramic art is the focus at Dubhe Carreño Gallery (www.dubhecarrenogallery.com), which often features hands-on demonstrations from artists; at a recent opening, painter Diana Solis was busily sketching and working with colorful acrylics. The “artist-in-residence” concept is taken to the extreme at 4Art Inc. (www.4artinc.com), one of several spaces in Fountainhead Lofts (312-850-1816). Here, artists actually create their works live during openings, from mixed-media sculpture to paintings. Every month the Chicago Arts District (www.chicagoartsdistrict. org) also features its own exhibition. Recent displays included a group photography collection, and punk rock memorabilia and stage art from Martin Atkins, former drummer in the seminal post-punk band Public Image Ltd.
When to Go
Many galleries are open Saturdays, but the best time to visit is during the free “2nd Fridays” events, when all the local galleries swing open their doors from 6pm to 10pm for receptions, many featuring live music and cocktails. Maps are available at the Information Center at 1821 S. Halsted St.
Where to Eat
Right on the Halsted Avenue strip is Kristoffer’s Cafe and Bakery (www.kristofferscafe.com; 312-829-4150), a great place to fuel up with a coffee or linger over dessert. And there’s a bevy of authentic Mexican restaurants in the neighborhood, including the slightly upscale Picante Grill (www.picantegrill.net; 312-455-8500). If you want cheap beer and bar fare that’s a cut above, head to Skylark (312-948-5275) for burgers, great veggie chili and legendary tater tots.
RIVER NORTH
Where to start: Superior and Franklin streets (just west of Downtown)
This former manufacturing district just west of the Magnificent Mile exploded as an artists’ enclave in the early ‘80s, when a booming international art movement coincided with dozens of artists seeking cheaper rents and bigger spaces from those on Michigan Avenue.
While a 1989 fire destroyed a loft building containing nine galleries, the area bounced back stronger than ever in the 1990s and now features more than 60 loft-style spaces within an easily walkable area. For art lovers without a lot of time to spare, River North is the place to go.
“It’s the largest and it’s the densest,” van Straaton says. “You have a full range of art, from photography and antiques to cutting-edge contemporary art, paintings and glass. Whatever you’re interested in, you can have a full experience.”
Key Galleries
The streaming natural light at the 7,000-square-foot Marx-Saunders Gallery (www.marxsaunders.com) provides a dramatic setting for scoping mind-blowing glass works. Meanwhile, Catherine Edelman Gallery (www.edelmangallery.com) showcases a full spectrum of contemporary photography, including street, fashion and landscape images. Vintage posters, like Italian cigarette ads from the 1920s, antique ceramics and furniture can be found on Oak Street at the impressive Colletti Gallery (www.collettigallery.com). Jean Albano Gallery (www..jeanalbano-artgallery.com) specializes in contemporary painting, sculpture and mixed media. A recent exhibit featured the whimsical watercolors of Gladys Nilsson, who first came to prominence in the ’60s with the Chicago Imagists.
When to Go
Every Saturday at 11am, the Art Dealers Association of Chicago (www.chicagoartdealers.org) hosts “Starbucks Saturdays,” free tours of four River North galleries led by local experts. Meet at the Starbucks at 750 N. Franklin Ave. Or, walk the neighborhood on Friday night, when galleries typically host their latest openings.
Where to Eat
River North is one of the most diverse dining areas in the city. Grab a classic Chicago beef sandwich at Mr. Beef (312-337-8500),
Jay Leno’s favorite spot. Or, head to Nacional 27 (www.nacional27.net; 312-664-2727) for Nuevo Latino fare and killer cocktails. Somewhere in between is Citizen Bar (www..citizenbar.com; 312-640-1156), a hip but friendly hangout with a solid wine list and a menu featuring creative Italian panini and salads.
WEST LOOP/FULTON MARKET
Where to start: Fulton Market Avenue and Peoria Street
The same factors that pushed galleries from Michigan Avenue to River North in the ’80s nudged gallery owners like Rhona Hoffman from the now high-rent River North to the more affordable West Loop district. When her established namesake gallery came to the area in the mid-’90s, the local art scene noticed—and subsequent pioneers like Kavi Gupta Gallery solidified this still-vibrant meat-packing district as the place in Chicago for more challenging, cutting-edge work. Indeed, the West Loop is where you’ll find emerging artists as well as established artists who show at major biennials and art fairs throughout the world.
“It’s more along the lines of the quality of work you’ll see in Chelsea or in Culver City in LA or in London or Berlin. It’s more of an international contemporary scene, versus a decorative contemporary scene,” explains Ryan Schulz, director of NavtaSchulz Gallery.
While the West Loop is much more of a destination-based district than the city’s others major art hubs—with galleries spread out from Washington Avenue on the south to Fulton Market on the north—it’s still walkable over the course of an afternoon. Your best bet is to grab a cab and get dropped off at one of the more remote galleries along Fulton or Lake streets, then meander south to the cluster of spaces at Peoria and Washington.
Key Galleries
The one-and-a-half year old NavtaSchulz Gallery (www..navtaschulzgallery.com) is a minimalist space showing work from emerging and established artists; a recent exhibit included innovative pieces from Brian Ritchard, whose oblong cut-outs of a completed canvas landscape were displayed like pieces of a massive jigsaw puzzle. Nearby is FLATFILEgalleries (www.flatfilegalleries.com), one of the largest spaces in the city with a focus on contemporary art as well as photography. Kavi Gupta Gallery (www.kavigupta.com) features thought-provoking themed work, like a recent show from New York artist Zak Smith. Downstairs in the same building is the stunning Carrie Secrist Gallery (www.secristgallery.com); a recent show grabbed attention thanks to a floor-to-ceiling chandelier and striking deep-blue plaster bust from artist Yves Klein.
When to Go
Tuesday through Saturday are good days to explore. Give yourself at least three hours since the galleries are spread out over 10 to 15 blocks. Openings typically happen Fridays from 6 to 9pm. For information on events, visit www..explorefultonmarket.com or www.westloop.org.
Where to Eat
West Loop’s restaurant scene has been exploding right alongside the gallery scene. For breakfast or lunch, Wishbone (www.wishbonechicago.com; 312-850-2663) serves homestyle Southern specialties. Swanky nightspots for drinks or dinner include Sushi Wabi (www.sushiwabi.com; 312-563-1224) and Marché (www.marche-chicago.com; 312-226-8399), a grand French brasserie that was one of the first restaurants in the area, and is still one of the best.