TAKE A TRIP BACK IN TIME TO ONE OF CANCÚN’S NEARBY ARCHAEOLOGICAL TREASURES.
BY ROD O’CONNOR
For many visitors to the Yucatán, excursions to the peninsula’s archaeological wonders are just a way to break up a vacation on the beach. But once you get a taste of the fascinating history of the ancient Maya, you may want more. Luckily, those interested in taking a trip back in time can find several significant sites within a few hours’ drive from hotspots Cancún and Playa del Carmen.
The peninsula has plenty of off-the-beaten-path historic destinations for both repeat visitors and adventurous souls who want to sidestep the crowds.
Of the big three civilizations in the ancient Western world—the Inca of Peru, Aztecs of central Mexico, and Maya of the Yucatán, Guatemala, northern Belize and western Honduras—the Maya were perhaps the most advanced. While they originated in Central America as early as 2000 BC, the Maya really strutted their stuff during their Classic period (200 to 900 AD). Among their achievements are pyramids, a highly accurate calendar and a writing system that can still be understood 1,000 years later.
“In some ways they can be compared to ancient Egypt. Both had a very good knowledge of the universe,” says Manuel Ricardez, general manager of 4 Worlds Expeditions (www.4worldsexpeditions. com) and a Mayan culture expert.
While some refer to the “Mayan empire,” they never had a single ruler or capital. Much like ancient Greece, the Mayans had city-states that shared culture and language. One of the most important and well-known of these regional powers was Chichen Itza—but there is much more to explore.
TULUM
An hour and a half south down the coast from Cancún, Tulum is certainly the most beautiful of all the Mayan ruins and the only example where you can see a pyramid with the pristine waters of the Caribbean in the background. Most of the remaining structures here were built between 1200 and 1450, and it is the only extant local site that was thriving at the time of the Spanish Conquest. It’s believed that Tulum (“wall” in Mayan) probably existed as a fortified trading center for interior cities such as nearby Coba.Along with its stunning, scenic locale, Tulum is best known for its castle perched high on the coastal cliffs. The other major building to explore on the grounds is the Temple of the Descending God. Another great reason to head to Tulum is its beaches, which are easily accessible from the ruins and a perfect cap to a leisurely few hours exploring this compact site.
EK BALAM
Halfway between Cancún and Chichen Itza, Ek Balam is smaller and less crowded but equally impressive. Still under excavation, Ek Balam (which means “black jaguar”) only started being restored in 1997. As you approach the site, you can’t miss the six-level Acropolis pyramid.And it’s equally impressive up close, adorned with elaborate sculptures and human-sized friezes. “Many of the original colors they were painted with are still visible,” says Alfonso Muralles, an archaeological tour guide with Mayatour (www.. mayatour.com).
COBA
About 30 miles northwest of Tulum you’ll find Coba, one of the older sites in the area and a less-traveled, challenging archaeological journey. This city was a regional capital 300 years before Chichen Itza and was home to as many as 50,000 people. Deep in the rain forest, Coba is ideal for adventure-seekers, as a visit can include a hike through ruins still buried under thick jungle vegetation.
Coba has several large pyramids, with the tallest being the 138-foot Nohoch Muul (“large hill”). The city also provides an opportunity to admire the Maya’s highly advanced dating system, with engravings that have been traced back more than 1,000 years. Most importantly, Coba gives visitors the chance to respectfully explore a site still held sacred by the Maya of today.
“It’s important to understand that the Maya still live in the Yucatán and go to places like Coba to pray to the gods,” Muralles says. “Many of the other sights have been taken over by tourists. But here the modern Maya feel less intruded upon… and they still perform their ancient traditions.”
EL REY
Despite its modest ruins, this site is a must-visit because of its convenience—it’s right in the Cancún hotel zone. Named El Rey (or “The King”) after a stone sculpture of a face adorned in the typical headdress of Mayan kings that was uncovered on the grounds, this city may have been built as early as 300 AD. Today, there are two major plazas and a palace with a top-floor platform thought to have been an observatory. Other structures feature what’s left of murals depicting glyphs, numerals and human forms.
EL MECO
This former port is just a 15-minute drive north of Cancún. El Meco is also notable because, whereas most of the Yucatán’s ruins are former ceremonial centers, this provides a snapshot of Mayan commerce.
“Some think there are 100 sites [like El Meco] in the jungle that were part of this commercial corridor,” Ricardez says. “It was very hard to walk in the jungle. To connect one point to another, the Maya would elevate the roads with rocks.”
Paved with the white limestone plentiful in the region, these thoroughfares known as sacbe (or “white roads”) were light-reflective for night travel. The largest of these roads, which stretches 60 miles, was found between Chichen Itza and Coba. But there’s another great example in El Meco. “This was a commercial road. And they would use these sites as a point to arrive with merchandise,” Ricardez says.
Because it was only recently open to the public, there aren’t many organized tours available to El Meco. But with views of one of Cancún’s lagoons and 14 structures, including a temple, in excellent condition, El Meco makes for a fascinating excursion. It is easily accessible, too—because sometimes even the cultural tourist needs to make it back to the beachfront bar in time for happy hour.
Chichen Itza
Named one of the New Seven Wonders of the World in 2006 and a World Heritage Site since 1988, Chichen Itza is by far the most popular archaeological destination in Yucatán. Built over several centuries, the city was at the peak of its power from 700 AD-900 AD. Several of this sprawling city’s important monuments remain today, but the primary draw is the central Temple of Kukulkan (also know as El Castillo), an 80-foot-tall pyramid that demonstrates the amazing accuracy of the Mayan calendar.
Each of the pyramid’s four sides has a stairway with 91 steps, which, together with the shared step of the platform at the top, add up to 365 days. Every year, thousands make the trek to the temple on the spring and fall equinox, when the interplay between the sun and the shadows from these steps create the illusion of a plumed serpent (the Mayan god Kukulkan) moving down the side of the pyramid. As cool as it looks, the significance of this creeping snake is even more impressive.
“This was the signal for the people to start fertilizing the land. And a few months later, it let them know it was time to pick everything that they grew,” Manuel Ricardez says. “This was the calendar that marked all of their cultural cycles.”
Unlike many of the other cities of their time, Chichen Itza was inhabited not only by the Maya, but other ethnic groups like the Toltecs of central Mexico. Indeed, it’s believed the Toltecs made Chichen Itza their capital, too, and brought the practice of human sacrifice to the city, which explains the remains found in one of two natural wells or sinkholes (called cenotes) that provided water for the people and had important ceremonial roles.
On many archaeological tours, groups can explore cenotes. Also, don’t forget to stroll the Temple of the Warriors, a complex surrounded by rows of carved columns, and the two-tiered Temple of the Jaguar.
Nice Digs
The sites may be old and crumbling, but that doesn’t mean your accommodations should be.
La Zebra Beach Cantina & Cabanas
Just outside Tulum, this small hotel features nine cabana-style rooms marked by their rustic charm. Next door is a cantina serving traditional home cooking, and on-site adventure sports include kiteboarding and scuba diving. www.lazebrahotel.com; +52-984-115-4726
Paraiso de la Bonita
This stunning, beachfront AAA Five Diamond resort in Puerto Morelos, 15 miles south of Cancún, lies on 14 acres leading into the Caribbean Sea. The adults-only haven has every luxury you need as well as a good, central location for visiting archaeological sites in the area. www.paraisodelabonita.com; +52-998-872-8300
Las Ranitas
About 5 miles south of the Tulum ruins, and a 90-minute drive from the Cancún airport, this colorful boutique hotel features 10 beachfront rooms, an ecologically conscious philosophy (it uses solar energy and collects rainwater) and a dedication to health, with on-site yoga and massage. www.lasranitas.com; +52-984-877-8554
The Blue Parrot Hotel
With 39 rooms at the main hotel on the beach, plus 22 suites, and an 18-studio boutique hotel, The Blue Parrot offers something for everyone, along with a chic, laidback vibe, an upscale restaurant and a location in the heart of Playa del Carmen that’s an easy drive to most area ruins. www.blueparrot.com; 800-435-0668