(Bay) CHEESE
DEVELOP YOUR TASTE FOR DAIRY IN SAN FRANCISCO WITH A PLATTER OF DELICIOUS EDUCATIONAL OFFERINGS. BY KAREN LELAND
CHEESE SCHOOL OF SAN FRANCISCO
When Sara Vivenzio opened the doors of her school in 2006, she had one goal in mind: to provide a place where foodies, culinary professionals and the merely curious could enhance their knowledge and appreciation of cheese. Today, the Cheese School (the only institution of its kind in the Bay Area) offers up to 10 classes per month on everything from the history of cheese to creating the perfect beer, wine or whiskey pairing. Classes require a small time commitment (two hours) and a big appetite.
“All of our classes have ample tasting of the cheeses we are learning about,” Vivenzio says, “as well as accompaniments such as jams, chutneys, quince paste, artisanal breads, nuts, dried fruits, and a wine or beer pairing.”
As for the instructors, Vivenzio hires experts from all over the Bay Area and beyond. “Our instructors are all passionate about cheese,” she says. “They include a former owner of a cheese shop, a best-selling cheese cookbook author and the organizer of the Artisan Cheese Festival in Sonoma County.”
One of the most popular classes is the Basic Cheese Primer, an information-packed presentation on the history and process of cheesemaking, including a taste test of 12 different cheeses, all from different flavor categories. Other classes have included Silly About Sheep, a look at what makes sheep’s milk cheeses so easy to love, and Demystifying the Blues, which showcases some of the world’s best blue cheeses. www.cheeseschoolofsf.com
THE PASTA SHOP
An East Bay institution for more than 20 years, this shop has locations in North Oakland’s Rockridge Market Hall and on Fourth Street in Berkeley. With more than 1,000 varieties sold throughout the year—many of the cheeses change with the seasons—they offer one of the most extensive collections in the Bay Area. Juliana Uruburu, the store’s cheese director and a past judge for the American Cheese Society, is a passionate advocate for local artisan cheeses and loves nothing better than to educate customers by having them taste their way to the best cheese choice.
“There are many cheese counters in stores where everything is precut and it’s up to the customer to pick up something that looks good or they have heard about,” Uruburu says. “It’s wonderful being surrounded by so many talented cheesemakers. My staff and I have the opportunity to visit the farms and dairies and develop relationships with the individuals who make the cheese.”
Uruburu takes pride in the fact that this easy access to local talent gives her staff in-depth knowledge of the products they are selling. “Our cheese department is separate from the rest of the store, and my staff dedicates all their time to helping the customer. All day long, every day of the week, we talk about cheese,” she says. www.rockridgemarkethall.com
MARIN FRENCH CHEESE COMPANY
After the Gold Rush, hardworking San Francisco stevedores would take a break and have a glass of beer and a pickled egg to ready themselves for returning to work. That’s when the idea hit Jefferson Thompson: Let them eat cheese. And they did. The founder of Marin French Cheese Company, Thompson sold his cheese to bars for hungry European dockworkers, who devoured it.
Located in Petaluma, the Marin French Cheese Company has been in business for 143 years and is the oldest continuously operating cheese company in the United States. In 2006, it earned 16 awards in the American Cheese Society International Competition and six medals in the World Cheese Awards competition.
Jim Boyce, who runs the company, says it’s the North Bay’s terroir (French for “sense of place”) that inspires the production of world-class artisanal cheeses.
“The climate here is ideal for making cheese,” Boyce says. “The flavor cultures that we bring in from Normandy and other parts of France seem to do very well in the cool, humid climate of Marin County.”
Visitors are welcome for self-guided tours. You can see the packaging area and visit the store to taste the 35 varieties of cheese that the factory produces. When you’re cheesed-out (if that’s possible), grab a bite at the deli and head to the picnic area. www.marinfrenchcheese.com
As for the future of the Bay Area cheese scene, all the experts agree: The playing field will only get bigger and better from here on out. “California is full of cosmopolitan, well-traveled and well-educated people looking for the next interesting and exciting cheese,” Uruburu says. “I see tremendous expansion in the field because cheese is a wholesome product that comes from the heart, made by people who work hard every day to produce perfect gems.”
CHEESE ABCs
Laura Werlin, author of Laura Werlin’s Cheese Essentials (Stewart, Tabori & Chang), says that the key to negotiating your way around the cheese counter begins by learning to identify eight basic varieties.
Fresh. This is a cheese that is made and sold quickly. It’s not meant to age and won’t last long. The flavors are milky, tangy and sweet. Examples include mozzarella, goat, ricotta and fromage blanc.
Semi Soft. Generally mild in flavor, and if you press this cheese it has a spongy feel. It is creamy in the mouth and melts well. Examples include Havarti, Colby and Gouda.
Soft Ripened Cheese. A very creamy cheese, and as it ages, it gets softer. The characteristic rind is a part of this type of cheese and is meant to be eaten.
Examples include Brie, Camembert and the popular California Humboldt Fog.
Surface Ripened Cheese. Known for a wrinkly rind that encases a creamy center, this cheese gets harder over time. Examples include cheeses from the Loire Valley in France.
Semi Hard Cheese. The balance between salt, fat and protein makes this type of cheese the ideal candidate for pairing with a wide variety of wines. When you press it, it gives less than a semi soft. Examples include Gruyere and cheddar.
Hard Cheese. Saltier and more granular, this cheese feels drier in the mouth. It can be grated as it ages and goes well with dried fruit. Examples include Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Blue Cheese. Pungent, tangy and strong, this type of cheese can be creamy or crumbly. Examples include Stilton and Roquefort.
Washed Rind Cheese. The most aromatic of all the types, it can usually be identified by the orange or pink rind. One example is Taleggio.